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Post by guamie on Oct 3, 2011 10:50:48 GMT -5
Needing that big rod that you push to prop up the headlights... Might need the little pieces too.... Heck, anything that goes with it would help! ;D
Thanks!
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Post by brianboggs on Oct 4, 2011 5:11:18 GMT -5
Shane, do you have the rod that goes between the two headlight buckets? If you do you can always fab up a pushrod. I think if you look up on the board Gary Hammond has a detailed photo of his( I think). It may have been on the old board?  ?? Anyway should be doable with a little fabrication. |
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Post by Gary Hammond on Oct 4, 2011 9:21:08 GMT -5
Hi Brian,  I think if you look up on the board Gary Hammond has a detailed photo of his( I think). It may have been on the old board? ?? Anyway should be doable with a little fabrication. I think Guamie might have the sundowner pop up lights and is inquiring about the mechanism to raise them? I have the drop down doors and fabricated a bellcrank arrangement to pull the cable to close the doors. And there are pictures of it on both boards.  Here's the link to it on this board. bradleygt.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=general&thread=894&page=1#6921Gary Hammond,   |
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Post by guamie on Oct 6, 2011 13:27:07 GMT -5
Yes, I need that mechanism to work the lights.....I would like to get the car street legal then mess with the lights. Right now I have them temp. supported up - which just looks "dorky".
Gary - Ha! Funny. I had copied those pictures because I want to do mine like that too - but I thought they just sat like that....I'll have to look closer to figure out how to do a similar set up. Fantastic brain food.
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Post by darrenz on Jan 26, 2012 19:39:33 GMT -5
My Lites were open when I got the car.I ran a cable from one light to the other then connected cable from my linear actuator in center.works well
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Post by cocacoladodge on Jan 26, 2012 23:13:32 GMT -5
Has anyone ever done a electric kit on their covers? something I was thinking was getting some electric units from a mid 90's ford probe, turning that backwards, and fiberglassing the back of the Bradley cover to the front of the probe ones. There are Probes in the local junkyard quite often, as well as other cars with hideaways, the Mid 90's probe looks closest to the curvature, and size to what I'm looking for. Anyone have advice on this?
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Post by darrenz on Jan 29, 2012 13:34:26 GMT -5
Maybe I am not following you... mine always opened and closed with an electric motor but the motor was bad. now my single linear actuator mounted under the dashboard pulls a single cable that runs to the cable between the 2 lights. I think the original set up was a windshield wiper motor
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Post by cocacoladodge on Jan 30, 2012 0:03:51 GMT -5
both of my Bradleys have the pull cable, and I want to get rid of that and go to an electric setup. I'm looking for Ideas how to do it, a wiper motor you say? sounds interesting, but not dependable... the force of wind might burn the motor out trying to keep it in position. thats why I'm thinking use an actual hideaway kit that can withstand opening and closing while driving without allowing the cover to flex in one direction or the other and snap.
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Post by jspbtown on Jan 30, 2012 10:41:50 GMT -5
A linear actuator (or dual actuators) would be more than strong anough. You can attach them directly to the covers or work via the linkage.
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Post by darrenz on Jan 30, 2012 21:16:52 GMT -5
I believe what was originally in my car was original partof the kit. I believe it was vw wiper motor mounted on floor dir center of dashboard and wired directly to headlight switch to open and close doors when lights turned on and off. I mounted a single 4 inch I believe actuator under dash. be careful of directly mounting because they have a couple 100 pounds of force. that is why i went with cable set up to provide a weak link if neccessary.i would post pics of half the mods ive done if i could post them right here without image hosting etc.heres a step by step. 1st i attached piece of cable from one light to other(leave a little slack)i thenattached a cable and clamp around that cable in center(slide side to side until doors raise even) the other end runs through firewall under dash to linear actuator.i then kept actuator in the in position(not extended)pulled cable through hole in actuator closing doors and secured cableclamp. now when extending actuator to open doors it cannot push too far and break anything because cable and when closes cant pull too far and break because i set up in closed pos.as far as wiring i used a door lock socket and two relays(avail at any car stereo shop,used for power door locks when adding remote starts to cars)that gives you the capability to reverse polarity to the actuator to give you up and down seeing that actuators are only two wire. i can email wiring diagrams(pics of my set up also once i pull mine out of storage)may be had to understand but i can draw a sketch and email to anyone interested
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Post by wd5bst on Jan 31, 2012 1:09:02 GMT -5
the cheap way is to use fastner on top of door.use nylon bolt and fastner with same size threads
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?? Anyway should be doable with a little fabrication.
