GT2 Switchs

[meoff]

Im looking for a set of switchs for a bradley gt2. I need all but really need the headlight switch and headlight lock switch.. you can e-mail me at [e-mail]..
Thanks

[cali14]

There are 1 each NOS Headlight Lock switches on eBay, just look under Lucas 39831
There are also 3 each NOS Hazard Light switches on eBay as well, look under Lucas 39814


here is the manufacturer's website: www.lucaselectrical.co.uk

The other switch numbers are:
30987 Head Light SW.
39715 Wiper SW.
39464 Fan SW.

Hope this helps,

Michael F.

[meoff]

thanks but hoping to get the originals if i can but if not ill try these

[cali14]

the ones on ebay are original units from Lucas, this is what came in most Bradley GT 2's. Do you have something different? Let me know your part numbers if they are different, and I can probably find original units.

Michael F.

[cali14]

Correction on the Wiper SW.
That part Number should read 39715, I apologize for my typing skills.

Thanks,
Michael F.

[meoff]

not sure of the part number . im having to rewire the entire car. someone cut the wires out and the switchs are gone lol...I got about 90% of the wiring done i just need the switchs lol

[cali14]

I have someone looking into old surplus stock of all the part numbers. I would offer mine, but 3 of 5 have broken locking tabs.
There are a few others on this site that may have some surplus or a set they no longer use.
I wish you the best with your project, I am dealing with the same issue, someone cut all the wires except under the dash. If you need any wiring diagrams let me know.

Have a great weekend,
Michael F.

[Wyn]

In my search for Lucas switches that were popular for the old Jags for my GT2 . I was unable to find any of the old Lucas Jag switches in serviceable condition. Most of the NOS switches are so fragile they crack or break just trying to install them. In my set of NOS switches, 1/3 were cracked and broken.

I found Stafford Vehicle Components. The switches were close to the size needed. The S-V-C switches were newer and if any broke they could easy replaced. They are the same width but a little bit longer so little rework on the switch slot the switches will work. Also all the switches are Illuminated a little extra wiring but easily done.



I had redesigned my Dash for a computer and video screen and needed the switches to be gang mounted in the dash. The Gang Mounting Frames offered from S-V-C worked out great.
Also I needed to modify one of the switches, I took the switch apart, pulled out one of the contacts and moved it to the reverse side and this reversed the function of that switch.
Wyn



Link www.s-v-c.co.uk/

[cali14]

Wyn,

Thank you.
I like the set up; the switches and dash display look great.

You can also order the Lucas switches brand new with updated faces and symbols in the same size format. These days most manufacturers are using newer types of plastic material which stay pliable, and are much more resistant to heat & UV light. So far I have had great success with the units that are NOS original in the box; no problems with flexing the tabs. I completely agree that once they age with heat or UV the originals tend to fail at the retaining tabs.

I was looking into a touch screen digital gauge interface that was extremely easy to install; I was wondering if you could send me a PM with some information on your dash component layout, it would likely help.

Thank you,
Michael F.

[meoff]

Im also having a problem wiring in my lights....i can turn them on but cant make them stay up....when i run power to the red wire it just keeps running up and down.....and when i run power to the black wire it goes down and stays down. My wire diagram doesn't show what connects to those wires...any ideas?

[Wyn]

Are your limit switches setup properly? also make sure you are using the proper wires at the motor. I made the mistake of using the wrong wire I thought it was the ground. The case is the return line and one wire is high speed and the other is low speed. Those two wire made the motor run extra fast so the momentam of the armature drove the motor through the limit switches off section and keep running never to stop.

Bradley GT wiring diagram


My wiring diagram

[meoff]

thats not the same diagram i have but thanks ....ill copy it and see if i can figure it out lol

[cali14]

On the Headlight Motor green is used for positive power; while the red and black lead from the motor are not used. Ground is supplied to the wiper body/housing.

If you need a quick drawing for the original configuration, you can go to the bradleygt2.com website. It shows the wires in color, and allows you to zoom in.

Let me know if you want a copy of the original electrical diagrams, I can send you a set.

Michael

[Wyn]

Michael

Thanks, but I have all the drawings for the GT2. I find it easier to do a short drawing without all the conector to see the logic of the curcuit. Usualy all the wire colors flow through the connectors.


If you would click on my name, which will take you to my profile.
In the bottom half of my profile you will see : Recent Posts: View -10- most recent post.
change the 10 to 185 and click: Submit. wait a few seconds.

You will see I have posted alot of info on my GT2 build. There is also much info the Butt Sag problems.

Wyn

[cali14]

Wyn,

Thank you! I appreciate the support.

Have a great day.
Michael

[Dan MacMillan]

Aug 28, 2011 9:43:15 GMT -5 Wyn said:

Link www.s-v-c.co.uk/

Nice dash but how is the gauge visibility with the steering wheel on?

[Wyn]

author=davidsigouin board=ads thread=936 post=7306 time=1314662694
Nice dash but how is the gauge visibility with the steering wheel on?

Dan
The Speedometer and three of the gauges are viewable inside the steering wheel with no problem. The fourth gauge is behind the steering wheel on the left side. The right small gauge on top is the fuel gauge very easy to keep an eye on it.