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Post by peteinms on Mar 10, 2018 7:59:59 GMT -5
Thanks. That is pretty much what I thought. The gasket in mine is still remarkably resilient other than having shrunk somewhat leaving a big gap in the middle. I like the idea of the Corvette gasket with the molded corners at the top. That is the one spot this gasket didn’t make the cut. There was a significant amount of goop applued to each top corner and I’d like to avoid repeating that.
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Post by peteinms on Mar 9, 2018 16:39:22 GMT -5
I take it the windshield for GT 1 is ‘63- ‘67 Corvette? Correct? Is the appropriate gasket also Corvette? Or is it just a generic rubber? Mine had a chrome filler strip. Is this correct? If Corvette, convertible or coupe? They seem to use different gaskets. Any help appreciated.
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Post by peteinms on Feb 7, 2018 9:33:56 GMT -5
Does anyone have a spare GT1 right front bumper available? Something suitable for rechroming? Some idiot (not me) used the bumper to pull mine up on a flatbed and kinked it beyond what can be straightened.
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Post by peteinms on Feb 7, 2018 9:31:16 GMT -5
Not much difference from stock beetle. GT1 was lighter than VW but the addition of creature comforts like doors and bumpers pushed the weight up on GT2. Someone has an exact weight I’m sure.
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Post by peteinms on Jan 10, 2018 18:12:15 GMT -5
Where did you source the third brake light? Incidentally I was planning on installing reverse lights too. But mine are going to share the turn signals. A couple clear lenses and some leds will give me amber signals and white reverse.
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Post by peteinms on Dec 11, 2017 8:19:47 GMT -5
Nice job on the doors. Pretty much exactly what I was suggesting.
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Post by peteinms on Dec 9, 2017 8:32:14 GMT -5
It’s a shame we can’t put a class action suit together against Photobucket. They have literally destroyed the usefulness of every archived message board on the web. I know that’s what we get for being a bunch of freeloaders, but some advance notice would have been nice. I for one will never pay extortion money to them.
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Post by peteinms on Dec 7, 2017 11:35:56 GMT -5
And that’s a real problem down here anyway. I thought about cutting out the side outriggers and letting the air flow straight through to the rear wheel arch.
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Post by peteinms on Dec 7, 2017 9:30:35 GMT -5
I too am considering water cooled power. Subaru is the way I would likely go. They make a kit for about $550 to mount the Subaru engine to the VW transaxle. My gut tells me to go turbo for max power. But the VW Beetle transaxle won’t take that for long without switching to a bus unit (another expense). So I would probably do non turbo. It’s still going to have better than three times the power of the original VW motor. In a 1600 lb car that is going to be fast regardless. After looking more closely at the body tub, I would consider locating a small radiator with an electric fan behind each front wheel. There is a considerable amount of dead space there. Plus it doesn’t involve cutting the body. Any thoughts?
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Post by peteinms on Dec 1, 2017 9:00:57 GMT -5
Keep up the good work. I had a similar idea for the doors. I had envisioned a top section that curved down the sides to the point the side goes straight and a hinge at that point with a flat side glass. When lifted the folded assembly would stand atop the opening like an inverted “V” which would eliminate the need for a prop. Then the whole assy should fit behind the seats when removed. Similar in many ways to the MG T series bonnets with lift up sides.
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Post by peteinms on Nov 30, 2017 13:43:30 GMT -5
Check out Skip’s page. skip20corner.com/Bradley_GTII_Kit_Cars.htmlNow he went mid engine which adds a whole new level of complexity. If you retain rear engine then radiator mounting is your biggest problem. There isn’t much room up front. I would suggest putting the radiator at the very back in place of the engine cover.
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Post by peteinms on Nov 20, 2017 9:48:49 GMT -5
I would hazard a guess that less people have died in Bradleys than have died in church.
What? Too soon?
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Post by peteinms on Nov 19, 2017 8:35:26 GMT -5
Safely should be an issue for an owner to work out with their insurance company. The State should only be concerned with legal operation and the safety of OTHER motorists. I would argue that the kit car owner like a motorcycle owner has accepted a higher potential personal risk without endangering other motorists. IF safety was truly their concern they would pull the title of any remaining 73-87 GM pickups. Over 2000 people have been killed in firey collisions since their debut. That’s 20 times more than the Pinto yet no one ever talks about it.
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Post by peteinms on Nov 19, 2017 8:20:33 GMT -5
How is a kit car any less safe than a motorcycle? Or an ATV?
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Post by peteinms on Nov 17, 2017 16:18:16 GMT -5
How can they retroactively revoke a title that had already been issued? Seems to me a “grandfather clause”would apply. In MS they will title a cheese sandwich provided you are willing to pay the taxes.
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Post by peteinms on Nov 14, 2017 8:23:15 GMT -5
Don’t be discouraged. It’s fiberglass so anything can be fixed. The roof structure may be the most difficult IF you intend to replace it. But it looks just fine as an open car. I’m sure with a little patience you can make something very cool out of it. Keep us posted. And thanks for the tag location. I already looked there but I may have missed it.
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Post by peteinms on Nov 13, 2017 16:11:06 GMT -5
Where is the body tag located
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Identify
Nov 12, 2017 17:42:18 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by peteinms on Nov 12, 2017 17:42:18 GMT -5
If the headlight doors drop down and are located inboard, GT1. If they are outboard in the fenders, GT2 At the rear GT1 has two tail lights on each side, GT2 has one each side. Google them.
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Post by peteinms on Nov 12, 2017 13:08:49 GMT -5
Bumper goes into pipe. Hole drilled through both secures pipe to bumper. U- bolts hold the pipe to front torsion tube and a long bolt goes through the forward most outside body mount hole, through a spacer approx 1” long and through the end of the pipe. There also may be another U-bolt to the lower front valance. At any rate that’s how it was set up on my car. Hope this helps.
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Post by peteinms on Nov 8, 2017 8:08:25 GMT -5
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Post by peteinms on Nov 7, 2017 18:58:14 GMT -5
What wiring harness are members using. The one in my car is a mess. The usual proliferation of those blasted red blue and yellow crimp on connectors. Most of them are loose or badly corroded. I’m a soldering fool but I would prefer to replace the whole thing. Does one start with a beetle harness and add as needed or is there a better alternative? Let me say for the record that I have a strong dislike of “Painless” harnesses and their like. Not only are they expensive but incredibly labor intensive considering you have to terminate just about every single blasted wire. Even when they know what car it’s going in. “Pain in the a$$” is more like it. Rant over. Recommendations?
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Post by peteinms on Nov 7, 2017 18:35:00 GMT -5
Don’t forget how little oil a VW engine actually holds. Three quarts! If you are a quart low, you are 1/3 low. Keep a VERY close eye on the level, especially if you have a leak or burn some. These engines are very hard on oil and it is a major contributor to keeping your engine cool too. Change often and don’t use cheap stuff.
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Post by peteinms on Oct 30, 2017 11:51:45 GMT -5
Absolutely! 😜
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Post by peteinms on Oct 30, 2017 7:56:26 GMT -5
Thanks. I knew there was a number, I just couldn’t remember where. Pan is a 73. The best price I could find on pans without the seat hump was on Jegs of all places. 107 per side with free shipping. Unbelievably cheap. Same manufacturer as some of the more expensive.
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Post by peteinms on Oct 29, 2017 9:58:23 GMT -5
Hello all. I have just purchased my first Bradley GT. Body is excellent. Color is awful in “Metallic Poo”. Bad floor pans, no engine, you know the drill. A couple of questions: What are the best floor pans to buy? Both in terms of quality for money and VW year range. The pan under this car seems to be set up with the seat slide channels welded to the pan. As they are redundant in the GT, is there a better pan to use? Next, where should I look for some kind of identifying tag or VIN on the body and/or pan? I can find nothing useful.
Thanks in advance PeteinMS
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