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Post by Wyn on Aug 23, 2009 19:46:20 GMT -5
With my wife fracturing her knee in two places and with my own med problems. I finally found some time to work back on my Brad GTII. I just about have my sag support about done. I’m painting the supports now, and I hopping to get the body on the chassis this week, as next Monday, Aug 31, I go in the Hospital to get a partial knee replacement. More delays. But with the body on the chassis I can climb in to the Brad and do some minor work.  |
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Post by Wyn on Aug 26, 2009 6:58:41 GMT -5
Braces are mounted, All I need now is to get the body mounted by Sunday    This type of brace may not work for everyone. I have the 1” body lift installed and that gives me 2.5” over the top of each shock absorber for clearance for the body. The U channel is 2” wide so that only gives ½” of clearance. |
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Post by big bob on Aug 26, 2009 9:25:23 GMT -5
looks really good, wyn!
it'll give you the rear end support and probably more solid ride in general. good luck with the health issues... big bob
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Post by mrbigh on Aug 26, 2009 11:15:41 GMT -5
WYN, the support looks really very professional with that steel "C" channel", it makes it light weight and sturdy. As a note, I will have to make a similar one that will carry a load of an additional 200 Lb of batteries for the rear deck, for my future electric conversion. Get well soon and do not be to faraway from the computer, it is a great way of entertainment and better yet, daily in the Bradley forum  |
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Post by Gary Hammond on Aug 26, 2009 13:59:39 GMT -5
Hi Wyn,  The braces look real good, as does the rest of your work. ;D And here's wishing you and your wife the best with the health issues! Gary Hammond,   |
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Post by Tony O. on Sept 19, 2009 20:26:38 GMT -5
Hi Wyn,
Nice work. Did you fabricate the body lift pieces or purchase them?
If you made them, how did you bend the square tube? If you bought them, from what supplier?
Tony
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Post by Wyn on Sept 23, 2009 14:35:25 GMT -5
Sorry Tony, I did not see your reply on the line. The support is 1” by 2” U channel. I first made the mounting brackets and bolted them the frame. Next I aligned the uncut and unshaped ‘U’ channel and C-clamped them in place at the first angle. I made sure they were in the same plane and then tacked welded them in place. Removed the two supports and finished welding them. And again I reinstalled them and then made a paper template and marked the the channels for their first major cut. I used my sons air grinders to cut a wedge out of the side of the channel bent it and tacked welded and remounted it to make sure it will clear the top of the shock and horizontal to the ground. Removed it and did the full weld on that cut. The second channel I clamped it to the first channel cut it and welded it so both channels will have the same angle. Then remounted both. I made a wooden jig of the inside of the engine compartment to find the right angle for the inward bend of the channels. Placed it on the engine and channels rechecked all measurements, marked the two channels, made a plywood jig of the angle. Removed, cut, welded, one channel and c-clamped both channels together cut and weld again. Ground the weld down cleaned the channels and painted. I used fender washer under the channel mounts, by changing the size of the washer you can change the angle of the two channels for more or less support.  I had 2.5” between the top of the shock and the bottom side of the cargo compartment. The body is on a 1” lift frame. This type of support will probably not fit a GT II without the 1” lift frame. I have not been able to do much lately, as I’m recovering from knee replacement surgery for the past 3 weeks.  Because of some wiring error I did not get the body mounted. I bought a Web Cam and trying to get it set up so when I go to mount the body, maybe everyone can watch it live. The Cam is auto tracking so any movement the Cam will face it. Right now there is a little software glitch, A password problem and can’t get outside viewer to watch.  Wyn |
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Post by Tony O. on Sept 23, 2009 20:35:49 GMT -5
Hi Wyn,
Thank you for sharing your procedure for making the butt sag support.
My question is about the body lift itself. Specifically the radius portions over the front and rear tunnel humps. Did you bend them yourself or purchase / have them made?
Tony
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Post by Wyn on Sept 23, 2009 22:43:31 GMT -5
Hi Tony The lift frame is 1” thinwall square tubing. All the parts were cut and welded to shape except the forward firewall. I took a 1” piece to Tubular Techniques in Columbus along with a plywood template, and had them bend it. But there is a problem the downward sides of the tubing needed to ¾” thick instead of 1”, so I used the air grinder and cut a ¼” section out of the sides used Rob Stones sledge-a-matic ;D and beat it closed and welded. The rear firewall is just 1” tubing cut and welded to shape.   Wyn |
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Post by Tony O. on Sept 24, 2009 5:54:01 GMT -5
Hi Wyn,
Man that is beautiful.
Thank you for the info.
Tony
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Post by bowers7 on Oct 6, 2009 3:26:16 GMT -5
hi wyn steve bowers back on site finally. I for one am sure happy to get back on site thanks to nuclear insp. I have a lift tubing welded on and i just sliced mine and welded it after tacking it down. the body has just been sitting there all summer and i already have a bow in the body as i have a 1 inch gap in the center. My brain has healed itself as far as its going to since the heart surgery and now I dont have the confusion i did. things make sense finally. the bow was there when i set the body down and that was a surprise. I guess that came from me picking it up with a strap in the center. after hunting this week with grandson i will get back on it--steve
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Post by Wyn on Oct 6, 2009 7:32:44 GMT -5
Hi Steve Where is the 1 inch gap? In the center where, can you post some pics? The only 1” gap I have is between the console and the dash and I plan to make a 1” spacer and form it on top of the console and that will be enough to mount a retractable beverage tray from a 1998 Hyundai Elantra. Since I moved the shifter back there is room for the tray. Getting over these med problems is a real pain. I have not gotten much sleep the last 4 night for an assortment of problems. Wyn |
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Post by bowers7 on Oct 6, 2009 22:57:30 GMT -5
the gap is in the center on the right side and some on the left also. the gap on the left is caused by the body glass being doubled in front of the left door. I will try to do pics tomorrow i think. there is something holding the rear up but havent looked hard enough yet. will post when i figure it out after hunting. leaving thurs. with grandson. its his first big game hunt and he is excitrd. steve
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Post by Wyn on Oct 7, 2009 7:48:39 GMT -5
Hi Steve I’ll need to see the pics but it sounds like the but sag problem. As the read end drops the rear roof falls too which pulls on the bridge from the rear roof section to the windshield. This pulls the top of the doors back this causes the top front edge of the door to deform with the A pillar. Sometimes the upper corner of each side of the windshield to gap open. A good sag support should correct this problem. Good luck with your grandson’s big game hunt. Wyn |
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Post by bowers7 on Nov 26, 2009 15:42:16 GMT -5
hello wynn I am glad i made a overhead beam for lifting with a elect winch and used a 4 part line on the hoist. i have had the body off so many times making the butt support i cant count. it now takes less than a minute to take the body up and out of the way. i am still not finished but it will be well worth the work. I am another member that thanks you for your pioneer forsight in post pictures of your work. steve
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