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Post by gavinw on Apr 11, 2012 22:35:17 GMT -5
A family friend is selling me an old beat up Bradley GT2in exchange for some work and i dont know too much about them. I have been reading around and trying to find out what i can. I have a few questions and i was wondering if anyone can answer them: Where can i find the locks for the doors? I need keys for the two doors and i need a lock for the trunk. What engine would be best for it? Can you put a fiero engine and tranny in it? How can you tell the year of the frame? What size tires should i put on it (front and back)? Where can i find the seats for them? And i need to repaint.... any ideas on color? [  |
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Post by gavinw on Apr 11, 2012 23:48:57 GMT -5
Oh and how and where do you remove the body from the frame?
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Post by brianboggs on Apr 12, 2012 5:26:05 GMT -5
First place to start is to buy Jeff Troys Manual on CD. It will tell you everything you need to know. Send him a PM(private message) to get payment details. You have your work cut out for you on that one. I wouldnt waste time trying to put a Fiero drivetrain unless you have lots of time and money available. The car is basically a VW Bug. Lots of options for horsepower that will get you just as much fun in the end. The body mounts just as a VW body does but with a few extra fasteners and supports here and there. Good luck and one more piece of advice. Just fix it up simple first running and driving then plan on upgrades after youve been enjoying it a while.
Welcome aboard.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 12, 2012 15:52:26 GMT -5
Where can i find the locks for the doors? I need keys for the two doors ...AMC Pacer/Gremlin hatchback. Bring the cylinders to a locksmith, he can cut keys from the code on the cyls. and i need a lock for the trunk.  ? There is no trunk. Engine hatch and front "hood" have cables running to the inside to open them. What engine would be best for it? Start with a VW 1600 dual port, then decide what to do. Can you put a fiero engine and tranny in it? You can put anything in with enough money and mods. How can you tell the year of the frame? Frame vin is stamped on the tunnel just in front of the shift coupler access hule. 3rd digit indicates year. Wheel bolt pattern indicates yours is a 68 or newer. What size tires should i put on it (front and back)? Depends on the look you want and what eng/trans/susp you use. Where can i find the seats for them? Ebay, samba, here if you want stock, wrecking yard if you want comfort. And i need to repaint.... any ideas on color? Your favourite color. Oh and how and where do you remove the body from the frame? There are bolts that secure the body to the perimeter of the steel floor pan. Also note ALL GLASS is proprietary to this car. Although flat AS1 safety glass can be used for the sides and rear, the windshield is no longer available. Some used ones exist but are few and far between. Check my build at bradleygt.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=1051 |
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Post by centralvalleygter on Apr 12, 2012 16:10:52 GMT -5
One other "heads-up" is the GT2 suffers from "butt sag" if braces are not installed to remediate the problem. Symptoms will include not being able to keep the doors aligned. Word to the wise would be to research (on this board - discussed many times - become familiar with the "search" feature) and install braces in the phase when your body can be set in place and removed fairly easily. Much easier to solve then than after your final assembly.
Warmest Regards,
Steven
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Post by gavinw on Apr 12, 2012 22:08:18 GMT -5
about how many bolts are there for removing the body? and can you tell me specifically like are the right behind or in front of a tire or of a picture of where yours are? My front windshield is perfect not even the slightest crack which is one of the mains reasons that i am sticking with this car. I want wide tires in the back so that i dont have such a big gap between body and wheel. Any suggestions what width and size? Are there engine mounts or anything because i see nothing that i would attache the engine to except the tranny (there is a tranny in but no engine) |
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Post by gavinw on Apr 12, 2012 22:19:14 GMT -5
my vin is 529****and the 3rd number on the vin is a 9 so is it a 69? ? it says type 1/225A prutz 563 or something what does that mean? |
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Post by gavinw on Apr 12, 2012 22:37:01 GMT -5
and do the stock taillights have the turn signals and all that and where is a good place to put turn signals on the front?
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Post by mwilson on Apr 12, 2012 22:46:35 GMT -5
Holy smokes! You must have some great rebuild chops to tackle this one. The one I bought looked great on EBay until I got it delivered home, then it was about $4K to rebuild and lots and lots of manhours. Best of luck.
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Post by brianboggs on Apr 13, 2012 5:14:03 GMT -5
Mechanicals are all VW. Buy a VW book to read up on. The body mounts just like the VW Beetle. 20 cap screws give or take. Rear lights are all in one(brake,tail,turn), the fronts are mounted in the nose near the bottom. Motor is held in by four bolts to the transmission which is then bolted to the frame.
Again it is important that you stick to the KISS principle or the project will never get done. Once you start dreaming of how you are going to make it a race car then its over. Get it running and driving first then worry about how fast you want to go.
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Post by dawgdk on Apr 13, 2012 10:03:28 GMT -5
Put a motor in it check the rest of the drivetrain put tires on and drive to see what all it needs!! Some people decide after their first drive if they want to keep it or not. this car is not built for everybody!!! anybody can build the car with enough time or money! The body of this car looks great looks like all the pieces are there except bumpers and top glass. most of what everybody is seeing is cosmetic a good scrubbing would do wonders!! sandpaper and primer are not to expensive either. Just take your time and make it road worthy then worry about appearance!!
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Post by dawgdk on Apr 13, 2012 10:19:14 GMT -5
also if the floor pans are rusted out you can buy half or whole side pans to replace them. if they are not rusted through I would not even remove the body untill i had it up and running and on the road that way you can take the whole car apart and know what all you will need to rebuild on the car or chassis and the more times you remove the body the more chance you will break body parts and or that windshield that is nearly impossible to replace!! The main chassis bolts are beside the seat along where the fiberglass meets the steel chassis about 5 per side then there are about 4 on the front tunnel hump under the dash and about 4 on the back tunnel hump There are bolts that has to be removed from the gas tank up front and you have to unhook odds and ends. take the main bolts from around the chassis out lift up put a 2x4 between body and chassis and look for anything that will keep you from removing the body. good luck it's not that hard just time consuming because these bolts usually like to rust.
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Post by dawgdk on Apr 13, 2012 10:37:41 GMT -5
you need to start a post in the general discussion area you will get more feed back.  |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 13, 2012 19:15:41 GMT -5
my vin is 529****and the 3rd number on the vin is a 9 so is it a 69? ? it says type 1/225A prutz 563 or something what does that mean? Something wrong with the vin. It should read 11xxxxxxxx First 2 digits are model and type 11=beetle sedan 3rd =year |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 13, 2012 19:17:35 GMT -5
and do the stock taillights have the turn signals and all that and where is a good place to put turn signals on the front? Yes the stock rear lights are Tail/stop/signal. Fronts go in the bumper, see my build if you are bumperless. |
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Post by gavinw on Apr 13, 2012 22:33:39 GMT -5
Typ 11 eahrgest l.r 52975**
heizg typ 1/255a prutz .... 563
And then a few other numbers that I guess regard weight is size or Somethin
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 14, 2012 3:34:28 GMT -5
Sounds like you are reading the number off an old body tag like this one.  Look for a number stamped into the tunnel of the chassis in front of the shift coupler.  |
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Post by gavinw on Apr 17, 2012 21:59:42 GMT -5
my tag is sort of like that old one if so which number identifies the year?
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Post by mj on Apr 18, 2012 9:56:01 GMT -5
my tag is sort of like that old one if so which number identifies the year? The build tag has no year information. In fact, they are rather irrational, random. |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 19, 2012 19:05:41 GMT -5
Did some more research. If the vin stamped on your chassis is 5 29X XXX it would indicate that it was built in Jan 1963. That is all fine but from what can be seen in your pictures it is no older than 68-69. It would be a lot of work to switch from wide 5 to 4 bolt wheel pattern for no apparent reason. More rim choices exist for wide 5 as well as more wheel adapter choices for wide 5. Is it a swing axle or irs trans? Are your heater controls [near the park brake} like this  or like this  Do you have ball joints or king/link pins? Is your shifter still stock? Is it straight or angled back? Is your master cyl a single stage  Or a Dual circuit  |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 22, 2012 21:07:12 GMT -5
To answer your tire question. Mine is a ball joint/ irs chassis with a 4 Wheel disk brake conversion. The rears are 275/60r15 on 8" rims with 3.5" backspacing, fronts are 205/65r15 on 6" rims {don't know the backsoacing} but I have 1" spacers and extra long lug nuts that pass into the spacers.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 28, 2012 6:41:43 GMT -5
Is this thread dead? Has the op backed away from the project?
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Post by gavinw on May 4, 2012 0:31:27 GMT -5
haha no im still working on it but very slowly. i have been super busy with work
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? There is no trunk. Engine hatch and front "hood" have cables running to the inside to open them.
