doug
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by doug on Oct 3, 2009 16:19:55 GMT -5
I have an engine I have decided to attempt a rebuild, but I have been foiled early.
one of the cyl. came off with the head and I cannot get it loose.
I have tried tapping with a block of wood, gently prying with two screwdrivers on oposing sides. I got it just a little bit out and tapped it back in thinking i could work it up and down until it would work out, but now i don't think I got it back up to where I had it the first time.
I have tried wd40, liquid wrench, soaking in parts cleaner.
I had a thought of incasing the cyl in a plastic bag and putting it on ice and maybe it would loosen up that way. (temp difference and all that)
I did not want to try heating the parts seems that would make it worse.
instead, I am asking for help here. ANY IDEA'S ?
doug
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vwman
New Member
Posts: 9
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Post by vwman on Oct 3, 2009 18:38:43 GMT -5
Doug,
Are you reuseing the cylinders? If not you can shatter them with a hammer usually enough the release some tension without dammage to the head or case. I have excellent luck with a penetrant called "Free All" Best I ever used,forget WD40. I have rebuilt 6 engine and only one had cylinders good enough to use over. Check thesamba.com I get pist/cylinder kits for $85.00 plus sh/hand. You'll be glad they are fresh when you get all done. Good luck with your rebuild
'
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Post by Gary Hammond on Oct 3, 2009 19:55:04 GMT -5
Hi Doug,  I agree with vwman about replacing the cylinders, but I would try holding the cylinder in a vise and then use both hands to twist and rock the head loose. (And WD40 is not a good penetrator.) Next, I would try heating the whole thing in an oven to 350 degrees and then clamping the cylinder in a vise while trying to work the head free. Of course you will need to remove the valves from the removed cylinder side of the head first, and wear heat resistant protective gloves. Or you could hold the head in the vise using 1/4" plywood on each side to protect it and then apply pressure to the cylinder. I think a strap type oil filter wrench for large oil filters will fit over the cylinder end to aid in twisting and pulling. Or you could get some 5/16" (or maybe 3/8") ready rod and cut 4 pieces about 18" long that you would place in the cylinder stud bolt holes just short of entering the head. Then install two large screw type hose clamps around the cylinder and all 4 ready rods. One clamp would be as high on the finned area as you could get it and still grip the threaded rod. The other clamp would go around the threaded rod at the base of the cylinder where it slips into the crankcase. The threaded rod should bite into the outside of the cylinder and allow you grasp hold of the end of all 4 rods giving you 18" of leverage. Gary Hammond,   |
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doug
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by doug on Oct 3, 2009 21:10:56 GMT -5
I tried using an oil filter wrench with no luck, but did not try to heat it though.
I had not planned on reusing the cyl's but I sure don't want to damage the heads, they appear to be in good shape (no cracks between the valves or spark plug holes)
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Post by didget69 on Oct 5, 2009 8:59:06 GMT -5
Doug -
Go to your FLAP's & get a can of PB Blaster, or Kroil; both are excellent rust penetrants... spray down in the area between the jug & cylinder head. Let it set for a few days & spray it a couple times a day. It should release with a bit of effort.
Bryan in NC
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doug
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by doug on Oct 5, 2009 17:35:31 GMT -5
Got it off today, sprayed it several times with a penetrating liquid, (don't remember the brand) then tapped the cyl with a block of wood 2 ft 2x4 and it worked off with no damage to the head.
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doug
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by doug on Oct 18, 2009 21:17:57 GMT -5
got everything tore down. Bad news, thrown rod. I haven't taken the crank apart yet to see the damage.
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