engine build

[papasdoo]

hey guys n gals in your opinion what kinda horse power will the gt handle with out being a total beast to keep under control i want to have fun but don't want to over power it for street use i i have built several drag cars and street race engines but never an air cooled v w motor can any one out there help guide me through these new waters

[Jeff Troy]

I've been told by several members that the 1776 is a nice balance between power and longevity. I've done 625K miles on the same engine I started with in 1976, with one rebuilt at 340K, and that makes a pretty good argument for mild modification and not driving like an idiot. The 340K rebuild in 1994 was upped to a 1641, and I plan to replace the engine with a 1776 at the next body-off overhaul when the MG is finished and on the road.

I've already had the new, low-mileage case cleaned, align-bored and machined for the 90.5 cylinders, and purchased a balanced SCAT crankshaft. I intend to put all new parts inside the case, and add a pair of re-manufactured heads. Outside, I'll use the other exterior parts from my current 1641 engine for the top end. These would include the AC compressor, Pertronix electronic ignition (Ignitor, plug wires and coil), 1-1/2-quart sump, HD oil pump, Gene Berg dual quiet pack exhaust (Jet-Hot MCC) heat exchangers (Jet-Hot MCC), real German tins and dual Kadron carburetor system.

The Bradley is very light, and I find the power from the 1641 to be more than adequate for my no-pressure driving style. My engine choice for my Fiberfab MG-TD Replica is also the 1641, but moving up to a 1776 in the GT should be fun. The Bradley is still just a boardwalk ride with a license plate, but using a Freeway Flyer transmission really helps the top end. My car does 65 MPH on the Turnpike at 3,000 RPM, and 75 at 3,500. I don't really want to drive a toy any faster than that; the GT is not the car to take to an accident -- and that's from personal experience.

Warmest...