|
|
Post by zeitgeist93 on May 29, 2022 20:52:56 GMT -5
Hey guys, I've finally gotten around to trying to get my pop ups working... I replaced the limit switches with new ones and they work great. My issue is with the motor. It looks like some sort of bosch motor and is also marked Columbus Missouri. Unfortunately any other markings are gone or too smudged to read. It almost looks like a 3 phase motor? It's mounted on the vehicle already and I'd like to avoid removing it if anyone has any advice. If not I guess I go that route. I've tried wiring it up and all three wires make the lamps go up without a ground connected. I think that somehow it's grounding through the frame? I did buy some nylon hardware for that side of the mount that would alleviate that issue, but I figured I'd throw a note out there just in case someone knows what's going on. Is this the "correct" motor and is it acting as it should? If not, what have any of you used as replacements?
|
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jul 5, 2022 16:23:10 GMT -5
Two things....
One, I believe the original headlight motor is a wiper motor from a van like UPS uses. Its really under powered for the task.
Two....use a linear actuator. MUCH easier to set up. Built in limit switches, stronger.....just a better set up all the way around.
|
|
|
|
Post by superdave008 on Jan 8, 2023 14:01:11 GMT -5
Hey buddy, liked your post! Can you tell me a little more about the actuator for the headlight doors. mine is on a cable with a lever . horrible always slowly creeps down.
|
|
|
|
Post by superdave008 on Jan 8, 2023 14:17:21 GMT -5
just looked up linear actuator on line
pretty cool! which one would you recommend? is it on a 3 way switch neutral middle? How many lbs push pull? full of questions who ever hooked the headlight doors up connected them to a heater control lever. just not functional.
any information/ suggestions would be appreciated.
|
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jan 8, 2023 18:14:08 GMT -5
Linear actuators were not as easily available when I was building kits so I don't have first hand knowledge as I did not use them on the GTII or the GT I built. I mean 50-100lbs should be more than enough. On the GTII its all set up for one. Just measure the travel from full closed to fully open. Get one with that amount of travel. Then mount it to an appropriate place...like near where that stupid motor and limit switches was mounted. Use the three way switch. Most actuators have either built in, or adjustable limit switches. I mean its a super simple upgrade.
I used them on an Avenger replica I built for both the front and read hatches.
|
|
xvw
New Member
Posts: 3
|
Post by xvw on Apr 23, 2023 22:47:24 GMT -5
Great input!
simple
stable
economical
Thanks for posting.
|
|
|
|
Post by Flyberglass on Jul 19, 2023 15:33:48 GMT -5
I have the whole unit in a box, with switches. $70. Plus ship, postal money order only. Thx J
|
|
|
|
Post by Flyberglass on Jul 19, 2023 15:34:58 GMT -5
Original actuator set up that is 😂
|
|
