|
|
Post by mwilson on Dec 15, 2010 11:37:08 GMT -5
Bought the lift kit, then saw on other websites how you need a steering shaft extension, (maybe use a super beetle shaft with the U Joints?) also read where GT II seats won't fit after the lift - one side is wider (maybe trim the side?). Another concern is the chassis up front where the bumper assembly attaches. Once it's up three inches only one of the bolts will go through - is this enough support?
Would love to see how others have solved these problems.
Thanks,
Matt Wilson
|
|
|
|
Post by smyrnaguy on Dec 15, 2010 15:03:25 GMT -5
A super beetle shaft has the wrong splines to fit a standard beetle steering box. You'll have to drill it and use a set screw or pin.
|
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Dec 15, 2010 15:18:38 GMT -5
I will only be raising my body 1” and hopefully the front body mount will work without too much rework. If not I will take it to a local metal shop and have two new ones made . My personal opinion is that a 3 inch is a bit much. I’m just thinking of the wheel openings and the gape at the top of the tire. But that could change with the size of the wheels and tires used. Back to the front body mount, as for the 3 in lift I would have a metal shop weld an extension on your old mounts or have new ones made. If the bolt hole falls in middle of the support web I would drill a 1” hole in front of the bolt passage and grind back the hole to allow passage of the bolt, washers and or the nut as drawing shows. Grind the curvature to match the torsion tube to insure the bumper support tube is properly aligned to the bumper’s pass through holes. I have seen many of the back clamps bent up pretty bad, I would weld a 1.5” strip of 1/8” steel on the back side of this clamp. And do the pass through holes like I have shown on the front mount. Wyn  |
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Dec 15, 2010 15:30:45 GMT -5
jspbtown Used a steering column from Flaming River, You might check on them. Wyn   |
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Dec 15, 2010 15:39:30 GMT -5
Yup...Flaming River column and Borgeson u-joints. VERY nice but VERY pricey. Maybe pick up a column for $250, two u-joints will run about $150 and then a $25 extension piece. Then a special wheel adapter. That being said I have one for my Avenger and one for my Deserter, and will install one in my Aztec 7. Yup...on the seats the outter lips rest on the tops of the frame rails. Raise the body off the rails or drop the floors and the outter parts of the seats will hit before the bottoms touch the floor. You will need to modify the seats & covers or get ahold of some GT seats. They don't have that lip. Here are some front supports I made for the GT...I know not the same, but the principle would be similiar. They use muffler clamps to attach to the torsion tubes. They were very easy to fabricate.   |
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Dec 15, 2010 20:40:06 GMT -5
I thought I saw on a VW site where someone had cut after the spline and inserted/welded the super beetle shaft into the existing shaft. I believe it was a dune buggy modification. Here's a place that has the shaft at half the price of other places. From the looks of things, it seems the ends are somewhat adjustable. Of course I'd go get it spot welded just to be sure it didn't come loose in traffic. Does anyone know the OD of the VW type 1 column vs the Super Beetle? I'm guessing if I measure with a cloth tape measure it won't be accurate enough to give me what I need. royrogersparts.com/vw133-419-951.htmlYes, the Flaming River looks nice but $400 isn't in my budget right now. Thanks, Matt Wilson |
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Dec 15, 2010 21:02:43 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by smyrnaguy on Dec 16, 2010 8:49:58 GMT -5
I have a Flaming River tilt column in my car and I used super beetle shaft extension with it. I drilled both ends for set screws and drilled an indentation in the steering box shaft to match. I machined an adapter that attaches the column to the u-joint shaft and is secured by set screws also. If I were at home I'd take a pic and post it.
|
|
|
|
Post by Dan MacMillan on Dec 16, 2010 13:47:54 GMT -5
Since people are talking about changing the spline on a column anyway. I have done the same a few times but using wrecking yard columns. For a lot less than a FR column, you can get a tilt column with all the controls for lights and wipers for much less. As a bonus it is also easier to find steering wheel adapters for newer columns. The last one I used was from a 97 Dodge Caravan. As long as your column is securely fastened at the upper and lower ends you can use a double jointed intermediate shaft. Offsetting the shaft with 2 joints is a good safety upgrade as it causes the shaft to travel sideways when hit from the front instead of going strait for your chest.
|
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Dec 16, 2010 14:01:30 GMT -5
David,
How do you deal with the bulkiness of production car columns? They are usually large, often square, lots of brackets, often with theft deterrent systems and etc etc.
I used a Chevette column in my Sterling. It was a pain getting it to fit in the tight dashes, minimal legroom (height as well as length) and small dashboards with all the clutter they come with from the factory. None of the 7 VW based kits I have built really had any room for the oversized turn signal/tilt areas of those factory column. Even my Manta Mirage used a Corvette (older) tilt/telescopic set up and it was tight for my legs/knees.
I like the FR columns because they are very easy to mount (muffler clamps), easy to wire, and are very compact. Of course I also like the early VW columns. I picked up two nearly mint ones a few years back that I have sitting around just waiting for a budget build.
|
|
|
|
Post by smyrnaguy on Dec 16, 2010 16:41:57 GMT -5
I used a late 80's Jeep Cherokee tilt column in my Hupmobile hotrod. It's about the same size as the FR and uses GM wiring scheme, integrated ignition switch, cruise control and steering lock. It's a narrow car with little room under the dash but the column fit well. I almost bought another for the Bradley but I stole the stainless FR on ebay for $150.
|
|
|
|
Post by Dan MacMillan on Dec 16, 2010 17:38:37 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by mrbigh on Dec 16, 2010 18:32:37 GMT -5
Dan: Nice looking TOY....
|
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Feb 13, 2011 13:16:14 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Feb 14, 2011 16:10:04 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Feb 14, 2011 16:38:45 GMT -5
Wyn
What about welding in and using a heavy duty muffler clamp?
|
|
|
|
Post by Dan MacMillan on Feb 14, 2011 17:09:03 GMT -5
I would exteng the stock bracket down like in the first drawing above, get 4 muffler clamps that fit the torsion tubes. weld the stamped steel part of the clamps to the brackets and use the u-bolt part to secure it to both torsion tubes. 2 clamps per bracket. It will take a major collision to break them.
|
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Feb 14, 2011 17:46:41 GMT -5
Anything could work as long as it keeps the body mount from sliding up & down.
That pointed end of the mount could wear a hole into the torsion assembly is what concerns me.
I like the ideal of welding heavy duty muffler clamps. that way I dont need to make that little metal plate and grind the curbiture to fit the torsion assembly.
Wyn
|
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Feb 21, 2011 14:16:39 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Apr 1, 2011 21:12:33 GMT -5
New problem: the speedometer cable is now too short. Is there one for a different model that is longer?
Thanks,
Matt
|
|
|
|
Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 2, 2011 3:18:08 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by mrbigh on Apr 2, 2011 10:10:54 GMT -5
New problem: the speedometer cable is now too short. Is there one for a different model that is longer? Thanks, Matt I had the same problem and replaced with a buss speedometer cable, this one is extra looooong but does the job. |
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Apr 2, 2011 23:42:32 GMT -5
Awesome! You guys are the best.
OK Wyn, you win! I had a three inch channel welded onto the bottom of the main brackets. Then I ground down the main and opposite bracket to sandwich the two pipes. I drilled a hole in between the two pipes and put the second bolt there. This was the best solution since it cost less in welding time.
That bracket won't be sliding anytime soon.
Thanks for the advice, you probably saved me some heartache down the road.
Matt
|
|
|
|
Post by jdhicboy on Apr 3, 2011 18:59:50 GMT -5
Matt, I just posted pic of my GT2 with a mock up of a miata seat with 3 1/2 inch lift. It might work for your. It is in the thread "Another new member also saving a GT2".
|
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Apr 4, 2011 23:01:49 GMT -5
|
|
